Salt chlorinators are the most common pool sanitisation system in the Hunter region, the majority of Newcastle and Lake Macquarie pools installed in the last 20 years use electrolytic chlorination rather than manual dosing. When a pool is removed, the salt chlorinator system, comprising the control board, salt cell, plumbing connections and associated wiring, must be properly decommissioned and removed. This guide explains exactly what that involves, who does it, and what happens to the components. For the broader equipment decommissioning picture, see our guide on salt chlorinators and pool equipment decommissioning.
Quick answer (BLUF)
Salt chlorinator decommissioning during pool removal involves: electrically isolating the system (licensed electrician), removing the salt cell from the plumbing return line (plumber or competent owner), removing the control board from the wall, and appropriately disposing of or reselling the components. The salt cell is the most valuable salvageable item, functioning cells sell for $150 to $400 second-hand in the Hunter market.
What a salt chlorinator system consists of
A standard residential salt chlorinator installation in the Hunter region includes:
Control board/power supply: A wall-mounted unit (usually on the equipment pad enclosure or garage wall) that converts 240V AC power to a low-voltage DC current for the electrolytic cell. Brands common in the Hunter include Zodiac, Astral, Hayward/Goldline, Pentair and ClubChem.
Salt cell (electrolytic cell): The in-line unit mounted on the return plumbing line, typically near the pump and filter. Titanium plates inside the cell use electrolysis to convert salt dissolved in the pool water into chlorine. Cells have a service life of approximately 3-7 years depending on salt levels, water chemistry and maintenance.
Plumbing connections: The cell is installed in the plumbing return line via union connections, designed to be removed without cutting the pipe. This is one of the easiest pool components to physically remove.
Wiring: 240V supply to the control board and low-voltage cable to the cell. The 240V supply must be isolated by a licensed electrician; the low-voltage cell cable is safe to handle.
The decommissioning sequence
Step 1: Electrical isolation
The control board must be de-energised before any other work. A licensed electrician:
- Isolates the circuit at the switchboard or sub-board supplying the pool equipment
- Removes the circuit breaker or fuse for the pool equipment
- Tags the circuit out-of-service
- Disconnects the supply cable to the control board
This step cannot be done by the pool owner or a non-licensed person under NSW Fair Trading regulations. It is typically done as part of the broader pre-demolition electrical decommissioning of all pool equipment.
Step 2: Cell removal
Once the system is de-energised, the salt cell is removed from the plumbing return line. Most cells use union connections at each end, the unions are loosened by hand (or with a strap wrench if tight), and the cell lifts out of the plumbing run. No cutting of pipes is required in most installations.
The cell should be drained and rinsed. If it is in good condition, set it aside for potential resale (see below).
Step 3: Control board removal
The control board is unbolted from the wall and the wiring removed. The board itself goes to electronic waste recycling, most Hunter-region waste facilities accept e-waste at no charge.
Step 4: Plumbing cap-off
With the cell removed, the plumbing return line now has two open ends. The licensed plumber (attending for the broader equipment decommissioning scope) unions in a bypass section or caps both ends. The pool return line itself is then capped at the pool shell end as part of the full decommission.
What is the salt cell worth?
This is the most commonly asked question about chlorinator removal.
New replacement cost: A replacement salt cell for a standard 25,000-40,000 litre pool in Newcastle costs $250 to $600 retail. Common cells (Zodiac LM2-24, Astral Hurlcon, Pentair IntelliChlor) are stocked by Hunter-region pool shops.
Second-hand value:
- Cell with 50%+ life remaining, tested functional: $150 to $400
- Cell at end-of-life (heavily scaled, reduced output, 7+ years old): $0 to $50 (scrap)
Before the pool is removed, have a pool technician test the cell output. If the cell is functional, list it on Facebook Marketplace or Gumtree, Hunter-region pool owners are always looking for second-hand salt cells. If the cell is at end-of-life, dispose of it as e-waste.
What about the control board?
Control boards have limited second-hand market value, pool owners typically match the board to their cell brand and model. If your board is a recent model (3-5 years old) and compatible with a popular cell, it may sell for $50 to $200. Older boards are generally not worth selling, recycle as e-waste.
Timing relative to pool removal
Salt chlorinator decommissioning must happen before the pool is drained. If the system is running while the pool is being drained, the cell will run dry, overheating and potentially damaging the titanium plates. Most salt chlorinators have a flow switch that shuts down the cell if flow is interrupted, but the safest approach is to power down the entire system before draining begins.
Sequence:
- Electrician isolates system → board and cell de-energised
- Pool drains (now safe, no powered equipment in the circuit)
- Plumber caps plumbing connections
- Cell and board removed for salvage/disposal
What if the chlorinator was running the day before, is the pool still salted?
Pool water that has been salt-chlorinated contains dissolved sodium chloride at approximately 3,000-6,000 ppm (parts per million). This salt concentration is present in the water when the pool is drained. Under Hunter Water and council requirements, dechlorinated pool water (free chlorine below 0.5 mg/L) can be discharged to the sewer, the salt content does not affect this approval. Salt is not a regulated contaminant for sewer discharge at typical pool concentrations.
FAQs
Can I remove the salt cell myself before the electrician arrives?
Only if the system is confirmed de-energised. If you’ve confirmed the chlorinator board is powered down and you understand the plumbing union connections, removing the cell yourself is a straightforward task, no tools required beyond a strap wrench. However, do not assume the system is de-energised without confirming with the electrician that the circuit has been isolated at the board.
My salt chlorinator is only 2 years old, is it worth selling or should I keep it?
A 2-year-old cell from a quality brand (Zodiac, Astral, Pentair) in good condition is worth selling. Alternatively, if you have a friend, neighbour or family member with a pool, a functioning cell as a gift or low-cost sale is genuinely useful. Keeping it for a future plunge pool or spa is also worthwhile, as long as the cell specifications match the new pool volume, it can be reinstalled.
Does the salt in the soil around the pool cause problems after removal?
Salt levels in the soil immediately around a salt-chlorinated pool can be elevated from years of splash-out. This affects plant establishment in the immediate perimeter zone. See our guide on pool removal and soil contamination from old pool chemicals for the practical detail. The salt dissipates with rainfall over 1-2 seasons and is not a persistent contamination problem.